Stitches Seam Important: Differences In Construction Between High-End and Entry-Level Surfing Wetsuits

Nearly all wetsuits are made to perform one simple function: to keep you warm. However, not all wetsuits are made equal. To understand what constitutes a high-end or an entry-level surfing wetsuit, it’s necessary to understand a suit’s basic components.

Wetsuits are incredibly complex and include a number of factors that help achieve their intended function of keeping you warm while providing comfort, flexibility, and durability. The most crucial and perhaps overlooked elements of a surfing wetsuit are seam construction and stitching.

The Difference Between Seams and Stitches

While these terms are often used interchangeably, they are not the same. A seam refers to the point at which two or more pieces of material are joined together (i.e., a chest panel and arm panel). A stitch is formed by a thread, or multiple loops of threads that join the two pieces of material together. In short, a seam cannot be held together without a stitch. 

Seam Construction

Both ill-fitting and well-tailored wetsuits are made of multiple panels of neoprene that are joined together to form a complete suit. Panels are connected to one another through stitching that runs along the seams at points of attachment. Seams are less flexible and durable than sheet neoprene, and as such, signify points of vulnerability in a wetsuit. The more seams your wetsuit has, the greater opportunity there is for insulation, warmth, and flexibility to be compromised due to wear and tear over time. The less seams your wetsuit has, the less likely it is that water will enter and exit your suit. 

Paneling

In this case, a panel refers to a single piece of neoprene. Seams attach panels of neoprene and are bound by stitches. Paneling impacts the fit and flexibility of a wetsuit. More panels often result in a better fit, but also mean more seams. Fewer panels mean fewer seams, but also less flexibility and a less precise fit. That said, advancements in neoprene technology (i.e., Oneill’s Technobutter 3) have resulted in stretchier, more pliable neoprene that can is both form-fitting and flexible with minimal paneling. 

Types of Stitching

As mentioned, stitching is necessary to join neoprene panels at seams. Nearly all methods of stitching require making many holes in neoprene in order to pass a thread through the material. This process compromises neoprene’s insulative qualities and is essential to determining a wetsuit’s warmth. 

• Overlock

The overlock method is the simplest stitch and is also the least effective at sealing a seam. This sort of stitch is often used on spring suits and low-quality full suits. Neoprene panels are rolled, pinched, and their edges are stitched together, creating seams that bulge that can be felt inside of a suit and can cause chafing. 

• Flatlock

Flatlock stitches are basic, relatively durable, inexpensive, but also quite porous. Wetsuits featuring flatlock stitches are made of multiple neoprene panels that are pressed together, creating flush seams that are joined by a mirrored stitch that punches many pinholes in the neoprene. This stitch runs through the interior and exterior of the wetsuit, but unlike the overlock stitch, lays flat and comfortably against the skin. 

• Glued and Blind Stitched (GBS) Double Blindstitch

During the glued and blind stitched method, the edges of neoprene panels are coated in glue before being pressed against each other. The panels are then stitched on the interior of the suit, but is not visible on the suit’s exterior. This stitch results in reinforced, watertight flexible seams. This type of stitching is often found in higher-quality, cold water suits as it provides greater insulation and flexibility than non-glued alternatives. A double blindstitch involves completing the initial blindstitch process on both the interior and exterior of a suit.

Types of Seam Seals

• Glued Seams

Neoprene panels are glued together before stitching occurs, resulting in a reinforced seam with improved water-tight qualities. This type of seam seal is usually found in entry-level to mid-range suits.

• Partially and Critically Taped Seams

Tape is glued over seams in certain critical areas (i.e., knees) that endure high stress/impact, but does not run throughout the entire suit. This kind of seam sealing is often found in mid-range suits.

• Fully Taped Seams

Every seam in the suit is covered by a layer of glued tape to ensure consistent durability and flexibility throughout the entirety of the suit. This method also covers and seals pinholes made during the stitching process. High-end suits and some mid-range suits feature this type of seam seal.

• Liquid Taped or Fluid Sealed Seams

Liquid sealed seams are bound by liquid rubber which not only offers strength and flexibility, but also ensures that the wetsuit is 100% waterproof. This seam is usually only found in high-end wetsuits intended to offer supreme warmth and performance.